The Centuries-Long History of Christmas Pudding

The Christmas pudding, a staple of modern festive tables, boasts a centuries-long evolution from its medieval origins. Initially a “plum broth,” it transformed into a “stiffer, stodgier frumenty” before solidifying into the “spheroidal form” celebrated by Dickens in A Christmas Carol, famously depicted as Mrs. Cratchit’s “speckled cannon-ball.” While the Victorian version is largely recognizable today, earlier iterations were vastly different, including pottages thickened with breadcrumbs or almonds, often containing meat or stock, and even “sausage-esque” forms stuffed into animal intestines. A 1392 recipe for “Fygey” illustrates this distinct past.

Historically, the pudding served multiple purposes. Beyond its role as a rich, spice-laced celebratory dish for midwinter, it provided substantial nourishment, particularly with its traditional inclusion of suet. This aspect, however, also highlighted a “risk” in its arduous preparation; 19th-century recipes, like Hannah Glasse’s, demanded significant beef suet, requiring hours of difficult work to clean and prepare, as noted by Elizabeth David.

The pudding also faced significant “risks” in its very existence during the Puritan era. From 1644 to 1660, celebrating Christmas and its associated indulgences, including plum pudding, was technically illegal in England, leading to fines and seizures of feasting foods by patrolling soldiers.

Despite these challenges, the Christmas pudding has endured, becoming a symbol of tradition and community. Examples of its enduring significance include the “City of London” sending pre-cooked puddings to soldiers on the front lines during the First World War, providing morale. Furthermore, in 1851, a grand charitable feast in Soho provided 5,000 pounds of plum pudding to an estimated 22,500 impoverished Londoners, underscoring its role in social welfare and festive generosity. This rich history underscores the pudding’s journey from a simple broth to a cherished cultural icon.

(Source: https://londonist.com/london/food-and-drink/londons-christmas-pudding-history)